The Fracas Over Menu Labeling

I'm just appalled at the behavior of Dr. David B. Allison, the incoming president of the Obesity Society, a leading organization of obesity doctors and scientists. In a NYT article about New York City's new rules requiring chain restaurants to post calorie counts alongside menu items, he was quoted as saying that they could backfire and cause obese customers to actually eat more. What? Why would a doctor and figurehead for such a prominent organization make such a claim? Isn't he supposed to be part of the solution, not part of the problem? Um, money. Unfortunately, he is also a consultant to the New York Restaurant Association and was paid by them to write a 33-page affidavit detailing studies showing how, under certain circumstances, diners with information about the high calorie content of their food might actually eat more. The New York Restaurant Association is suing NYC to block the new rules.

Who supports calorie labeling on menus? The Obesity Society. What? Yes, the very organization that will soon have Dr. Allison as its president stated that "more information on the caloric content of restaurant servings, not less, is in the interest of consumers." I wonder if the board is rethinking his new position? Other supporters include the usual cast of characters that weigh in on topics like this: Public Citizen, the Center for Science in the Public Interest, the American Medical Association, the American Academy of Pediatrics, the American Diabetes Association, and the American Heart Association.

And what about the rest of the population that is simply calorie conscious? Don't we represent an important component if not the great preponderance of diners? Given the choice between a 700 calorie dinner menu item and a 1,300 calorie item, we can intelligently make a choice that suits our needs. We can also ask if something can be substituted or left out of the higher calorie item to lower the calorie count. I think the FDA calls that being an "informed consumer". We used that argument when we asked the head of food service to add calorie counts to the school lunch menu. No dice. I might have to move back to New York. On second thought, I'll just keep making my kid's lunch.

Shame on anyone who tries to inhibit the free flow of information necessary for consumers to make informed decisions about the food they eat!

Heart Shaped Fruit & Dark Chocolate Strawberries for Junior Valentines

Happy Valentine's Day everyone! I made these gorgeous and delicious strawberries dipped in chocolate for my third grader's class party today. Needless to say, they sold out! The kids even came back for seconds for the heart shaped cantaloupe and pineapple I made with cookie cutters.

For the strawberries, wash and dry them thoroughly. Do not use any that have soft spots. Break up a bitter or bittersweet bar of dark chocolate into a glass bowl and microwave for 20 seconds. Remove from microwave and stir. Keep microwaving and stirring until the chocolate is completely melted. The strawberries must be completely dry. Introducing a liquid into the chocolate can make it seize up and that is a really ugly thing and a waste of good chocolate. I like to user Trader Joe's South American unique origin chocolate for this. The Scharffenberger is great too but it's less viscous and therefore goes on a bit too thick.

Holding the strawberry by the hull, roll it three quarters of the way up in the chocolate. Allow excess to run off and then place on a parchment paper lined plate. Repeat with remaining strawberries, reheating the chocolate by microwaving for 5-7 seconds when it starts to cool and thicken too much to coat the strawberry properly. Let dry, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to serve.

These have been a big hit a kids' birthday parties where the parents stay. It's nice to spoil parents too.

Real Mac 'n Cheese

A few weeks ago, I blogged about certain kids' cookbook authors who endorse hiding vegetables in food. Not a bad idea, but don't commit culinary atrocities. I think putting pureed chic peas in mac 'n cheese ruins it, sorry Missy! One of the loveliest things about mac 'n cheese is the silky texture of the cheese sauce. This recipe makes a luxurious one. Don't skimp on the hot sauce either, it really adds another dimension. Don't be afraid; this is not complicated. Get a good whisk ready! I like serving this with steamed broccoli florets; no more than 6 minutes please!

Get your kids to help you make this. Mine had fun weighing the cheese and grating the nutmeg. Of course, licking the pot is the most fun.

Real Mac 'n Cheese
(adapted from an ancient NYT recipe that I can't find online)
Time: 45 minutes
Servings: 12, feel free to halve the recipe

Ingredients:

• 2 cups diced onion
• 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1/4 cup unbleached flour
• 1 quart low-fat milk
• 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
• 24 ounces grated low-fat aged Cheddar cheese, or a mix of cheeses (I added local farmer's market cheese and it was excellent)
• 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
• 1/2 to 1 teaspoon hot-pepper sauce
• 16 ounces whole wheat elbow macaroni, cavatelli, penne or rigatoni
• 4 tablespoons grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Grana Padano

Preparation:

1. In a deep saucepan, cook onion in butter over low heat until onion is soft but not browned. Stir in flour. Remove pan from heat, slowly add milk while whisking. When thoroughly blended, return to medium heat and cook, stirring, until mixture begins to thicken. Remove from heat, and whisk in mustard and 20 ounces Cheddar cheese, salt, pepper, nutmeg and hot-pepper sauce. It will be lumpy at first, but have faith, it will come together.
   
2. Meanwhile, cook pasta according to "al dente" directions. Do not overcook! Drain, return to pot, add cheese sauce and stir until blended. Taste and adjust seasonings.
3. Spoon mixture into two 9-by-13-inch baking dishes. Top with remaining Cheddar cheese and the Parmigiano-Reggiano. Refrigerate until needed. To serve, allow dishes to return to room temperature, heat oven to 400 degrees, and bake about 20 minutes, until mixture is hot, bubbling and golden.